Today's high-protein lunch: Tuna and Bean Salad

Quick, flavorful and pairs well with winter storage foods like the side of roasted root vegetables at today's lunch at home. I could see myself eating this on a bed of lettuce or sprouts, or with a side of some fresh pear or apple slices. The Meyer lemons I purchased this time were pretty orange, so the color contrast of parsley and lemon zest was attractive.

Tuna and White Bean Salad with Lemon and Parsley
serves 2 as main dish, 4 as small plate with greens/sprouts

30 oz cooked white beans or 2 15-oz cans cannelini beans, rinsed and drained
1 5-oz can tuna
1/4 cup fresh parsley, chopped
zest and juice of one Meyer lemon
olive oil, salt and pepper to taste
1 very small clove garlic, minced (optional)

Combine beans, tuna and chopped parsley in a bowl. Whisk together the lemon zest, lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper (and garlic, if using). Taste for seasoning and adjust if desired, then pour the dressing over the bean mixture and toss.

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How much more awkward-sounding can the name of this salad be?

A mixed-bean salad with garbanzos, kidney beans and green beans and a pickled-tasting sauce is a common player on potluck tables in my area. It's an old standby, everyone sees the contents and knows what the salad is going to taste like. I felt like making one that had a bit more crunch, no obvious sweetness (my least favorite part of some versions of bean salad) and used the spicier pickle flavor of my own home-canned green bean pickles. 

The bean pickles are one of my favorite recipes from the Bernardin Guide to Home Preserving, one of my souvenirs from living in Canada. The original recipe is called Dilled Beans, but I use the variation called Hot 'n Spicy Beans, skipping the red pepper strips and the dill. The recipe also worked this year with purple beans, which make me sad by doing the same thing purple asparagus does: turn green when cooked.

When asked at the potluck supper what name this dish has, I responded, "Bean, uh ... bean and bean salad." There are three beans, but do you think my brain could add them up in the necessary moment to say something succinct like Triple-bean Salad? Uh ... nope. 

Bean, Bean and Bean Salad with Carrots
serves 6 to 8

1 15-oz can garbanzos (chickpeas)
1 15-oz can Great Northern beans
3 small garden carrots, julienned (about 1/2 cup julienne)
1/2 pint home-pickled spicy green beans with garlic 
1 clove pickled garlic from the jar of home-pickled beans
4 to 5 Tbsp pickle juice from the jar of home-pickled beans
4 Tbsp olive oil
2 pinches dried epazote
salt and pepper to taste

Place all beans and carrots together in a bowl. Whisk together pickle juice with minced pickled garlic, olive oil, epazote and some salt and pepper. Pour over beans and mix thoroughly. Add more salt and pepper if required. Allow salad to sit overnight in the dressing before serving.

Note: the epazote could be replaced by dried basil, savory or thyme for a different flavor.

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Summer Skillets are back!

The corn, squash and beans "Three Sisters" are ripe and ready to eat this month. We've eaten sweet corn, zucchini and "beans and greens," in addition to plucking the backyard green beans and eating them straight off the bush when they are small and tender. I love summer squashes like zucchini and pattypan and cucumber, and I'm waiting impatiently for the winter squashes to ripen on their long vines stretching out of my garden box toward the house.

All of these "Three Sisters" taste great with another of the summer/fall staples in our area, cooking greens. This year, one Swiss chard plant from some pretty old seeds was successful in the backyard box. It's time to ramp up the enthusiasm for greens because from here on out in the CSA box, I predict there will be a minimum of two greens each week.

The ubiquitous and ever-flexible zucchini teams up with our county's major export product, corn, and a bit of earthy chard in this summertime skillet. The quantity is large enough that the Dutch oven or chicken fryer is a more appropriately-sized cooking vessel. It's quick to prepare, provided you've cut off the corn kernels and kept them from a previous meal of sweet corn this week.

Smoky Summer Vegetable Skillet
2 to 3 Tbsp olive oil
1/3 cup sliced onion
3 cloves garlic, smashed with flat side of knife
1 foot-long, fat zucchini (scrape out seeds if it has tough, mature seeds in it)
handful of Swiss chard, approximately 8-12 oz weight
the kernels cut off from 6 ears of cooked sweet corn
2 tsp cumin
1 tsp Spanish smoked paprika
salt and pepper to taste

Heat oil over medium-high heat in a large, deep skillet/Dutch oven. Saute onion in oil. While it is cooking, cut zucchini into long strips and dice. Add garlic to the onion and stir one minute. Add diced zucchini and stir occasionally. While zucchini is cooking, clean chard and strip the leaves off the stems. Chop the leaves, save the stems for another dish or compost them.

Put corn into pan with cumin and smoked paprika when zucchini is somewhat translucent. Stir in chard when corn has started to heat through. Stir and cook briefly until chard wilts. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serving suggestions: by itself; on rice, quinoa or couscous; with bread or on top of toast; topped with a fried egg.

This next recipe was today's lunch, created and eaten hastily when I issued a spontaneous lunch invitation to two of Andrew's friends, who were passing through to drop him off on their way back home from Indianapolis. 

Tart, tangy tomatillos are probably cheating on my low-acid diet, but they are so good with rice and beans and I didn't want to waste this treat from the CSA box. I tried to leave most of them in the serving dish and only put a few slices on my plate. Sharing is better than eating them all myself, right?

When paired with a large salad, this dish served four. If it were a one-dish meal, I'd say it is two portions.

Tangy Tomatillo-Bean Skillet

4 Tbsp olive oil
1/2 cup chopped onion
2 cloves garlic, sliced
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp smoked Spanish paprika
1/2 tsp ground coriander
1 pint tomatillos, washed
1 cup leftover cooked rice
One 15-oz can black beans, rinsed and drained
salt and pepper to taste

Cut tomatillos into thick vertical slices, then cut each slice in half to make half-moon shapes. Heat olive oil to medium-high heat in a nonstick skillet. Saute onion until starting to become translucent, add garlic and stir one minute. Add tomatillos and spices and stir frequently until tomatillos are tender. Add rice, stirring and cutting with spoon to separate rice grains. Add black beans and heat through, stirring frequently, and season with salt and pepper.

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Taking it slow in the new year

During the first few days of the new year, my husband is still on winter break from his job at the university and I have extra days off from the cafe for New Year's Day and other days when business is really slow. It's cold outside and we're craving something warming and uncomplicated to eat after all the party food and cookies in December. And since at least one of us will be around in the late morning, it's a great time to drag out the slow cooker to make those dishes that finish themselves while you're having an afternoon at home relaxing or catching up on chores.

Before I go into the recipes, I just wanted to have a bit of a rant about slow cookers: you can't really just "set it and forget it," despite the conventional wisdom about them. They are slow enough to give you an afternoon off from cooking dinner, but not slow enough for the working woman or man who is away from home for 9 or 10 hours. Also, many recipes involve adding an ingredient an hour before the end of cooking time or changing the temperature partway through cooking. Unless you're talking very large slow cooker with very large amount of food in it (impractical for a two-person household like mine, where the five-quart cooker feeds us for two or three days) or you've got a fancier slow cooker than mine that can be set to only cook for a preset amount of time and then change itself to warmer mode, you just can't fill the slow cooker at breakfast and not look at it till dinner and expect the food to be anything but overcooked. My basic, no-frills Crock-Pot is a tool that can only be used for days off or staggered schedules where one of us has the morning off and the other comes home at the right time in the evening to turn off the cooking.

This planning problem is, of course, no trouble at all when one person is at home all day during winter break. On just one such day this week, Andrew further modified a Taste of Home recipe I'd already changed to accommodate our tastes. Here's our result:

Slow-Cooked White Chicken Chili
serves 4 to 5

2 chicken legs (bone-in, skin-on)
1 medium onion, chopped
1-2 Tbsp canola oil
1 garlic clove, minced
1 1/2 cup water
1 tsp Minor's chicken base concentrate
1 15-oz can Great Northern beans
1 1/4 cup frozen corn kernels
1 can chopped green chiles
2 tsp ground cumin

Brown chicken legs in oil. Remove and place in 5-quart slow cooker. Saute onions in oil until tender, add garlic and cook one more minute. Transfer to slow cooker, on top of chicken. Add all other ingredients. Cover and cook on low for 6 hours until chicken is no longer pink and leg bones pull apart easily.

Here's another recipe full of warmth, good smells, and beany heartiness that I made yesterday, once again making heavy modifications to a Taste of Home recipe. I was inspired to make cornbread (a Cook's Illustrated recipe) to accompany this one. Cut a piece of cornbread in half in a bowl and pour the stew right on top to let the juices soak into the bread.

Four-Bean Stew
serves 4 to 6

8 oz leftover roasted ham (OK to leave on the fatty bits)
2 medium onions, chopped
1 Tbsp olive oil
1 Tbsp canola oil
1 clove garlic, minced
2/3 cup packed brown sugar
1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp ground dry mustard
1 28-oz can Boston-style baked beans (no tomato, flavored with molasses)
1 16-oz can kidney beans, rinsed and drained
1 16-oz can butter beans, rinsed and drained
1 15-oz can whole green beans, drained

Chop ham and set aside. Saute onions in oil, add garlic and cook another minute or two. Stir in sugar, cider vinegar, mustard and salt. Simmer about 10 minutes. Stir all ingredients together in 5-quart slow cooker and cook on low 6 hours. Stir occasionally to avoid sticking. Serve over split pieces of cornbread.

Special note to my mother: Hey, Mom, I finally got over my long-standing hatred of cornbread! I found a couple of recipes that I actually like. They both include actual corn kernels, along with lots of fat or cream, and not very much sugar. For small portions only.

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Late summer bounty: corn and kale

It's been a tough year for corn harvests here in McLean County, but there have been a few ears in our CSA box a couple of times this summer. When it came along with kale and I needed to put together a fast dinner because we were already hungry before going to get the CSA box, I made this quick and hearty dish:

Quick Corn and Kale with Black Beans
serves 3 or 4 as a main dish
could be stretched by serving over rice or quinoa

3 ears fresh sweet corn
olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2 or 3 cloves garlic, minced
1 bunch kale (about one pound), de-stemmed and chopped
black beans, one 15 oz can, drained and rinsed
1/2 cup chicken stock
1 tsp cumin
Spanish sweet smoked paprika to taste
salt and pepper to taste

Shuck the ears of corn as soon as possible after picking or purchase and steam 10 minutes in a couple of inches of water in a covered pot. While corn is cooking, prepare the onion, garlic, beans, kale. Cut corn kernels off the ears when they are cool enough to handle. Saute the onion and garlic in enough olive oil to thinly cover the bottom of your pan. When the onion is getting tender, add the kale and stir until it wilts. Add the beans, corn, cumin and smoked paprika, then pour over chicken stock and simmer until the beans are cooked through, the kale has become tender, and some of the stock has evaporated. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

Spanish smoked paprika is also known as pimentón. It tastes like peppers roasted over a flame right in your mouth. It is typically sold in two varieties, sweet and hot. The sweet one isn't actually sweet at all, it's just smoky and not as chili-spicy as the hot variety.

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Split-pea soup: worth giving up your inheritance

I made a soup I was proud of on Monday and shared some of it with one of our neighbors to thank him for surprising us by shoveling our driveway on Saturday morning. Let's start with the recipe, so this post does not become anti-climactic.

Split-Pea and Vegetable Soup with Turkey Sausage
serves 6 to 8

1 pound turkey sausage (note, not just ground turkey, and not sausages in casings)
3 carrots, chopped
3 celery ribs, sliced
2 medium onions, chopped
2 cups yellow split peas (actually, in my soup it was channa dal, which are split black chickpeas)
8 cups water
1 tsp dried rosemary leaves
garlic salt, black pepper and paprika to taste

Brown sausage in a few tablespoons of mildly flavored oil. Add in the vegetables and sweat until onions start to look translucent. Add all other ingredients, cover, and bring to a boil. When boiling, turn down the heat and simmer until split peas are tender and at least some are breaking apart when soup is stirred. Eat some, store some in the refrigerator for later, and share some with a friend or neighbor.

Today, our neighbor returned the container in which I'd delivered the soup, with a card attached that read:

There's a Bible story that says Esau sold his birthright for a bowl of soup. If the soup tasted this good, I can understand why.

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What else can we do with mustard greens?

I brought some mustard greens home from the supermarket last week in the hopes of making something with them myself instead of only relying on the packaged pickled mustard greens I like to get at the Asian grocery and serve on white rice.

The ideas tried so far:
1. sauteed mustard greens with turkey kielbasa slices and onions, served over leftover colcannon
2. more mustard greens and the kielbasa/greens leftovers in a curried potato soup
3. raw mustard greens on sandwich of corned beef on rye
4. bell pepper, zucchini and shredded mustard greens stir fry with sweet soy sauce and fresh ginger

All these applications of mustard greens were delicious, and my husband was downright shocked at the difference in spiciness between the very mild and limp cooked greens and the raw greens on his sandwich, which were as peppery as nasturtiums.

In five minutes of poking around on the Internet, I've found recipes that treat the mustard green much like greens of other sorts:
1. just like collard greens with pot liquor
2. just like sauteed kale with garlic and chile flakes
3. just like bok choy, stir-fried and braised and served with soy sauce and sesame oil
4. as part of a mixed salad, especially baby greens

With their frilly edges and bright, spring-green color, the mustard greens available here are just begging me to use them more often with less cooking time. Perhaps blanched and simply dressed as a wilted salad, or tossed into a pot of beans at the last minute so they don't lose their peppery bite.

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Playing with garden produce: enchiladas

This week's experimental dish was a way to make a large amount of yellow summer squash flavorful.
The contents:
three medium yellow squashes, peeled (they had tough peels) and chopped
1 to 2 onions, chopped
1 15-oz can black beans
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
about 16 corn tortillas
6 to 8 oz crumbled queso fresco
assorted garden peppers (poblano, jalapeño, banana, bell), chopped
cumin and Penzey's Spices Adobo Seasoning to taste
salt and pepper
22 oz can enchilada sauce (I found a red sauce that was all chiles and no tomatoes at the grocery store -- score!!)


Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Saute the onions and carrots till tender, then add the squash and peppers. When vegetables soften, stir in the spices and beans and cook a until beans are heated through, stirring. Spoon squash filling into corn tortillas, sprinkle some cheese onto filling, roll into cylinders and place seam side down in a baking dish. Pour enchilada sauce over all tortillas, spread it around to cover all. Bake until sauce is bubbling.

Upon tasting, Andrew and I found out that the hot queso fresco squeaks like cheese curds but does not melt and does not have much flavor. I might have preferred quesadilla cheese or monterey jack. This recipe made enough for six people and it keeps well as leftovers. Many thanks to Laura for asking me to look after her garden for a week in exchange for all the produce that ripened during that time.

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Revised recipes: Linsensuppe and Rutabaga-Apple Casserole

I've had these two recipes kicking around in my recipe box for years, but I've never been satisfied with how they usually turn out. Yesterday, I made them both and fixed them so they will make me happy when I eat them.

Linsensuppe (German lentil soup)

16 oz. dried lentils
6 cups water
1/4 cup olive oil
1 1/4 cup chopped celery
2 carrots, sliced (peeling optional)
1 onion, roughly chopped
4 peeled garlic cloves
2 bay leaves
1 Tbsp tomato paste or ketchup
1 to 3 Tbsp red wine vinegar, to taste
salt
pepper

Pick out stones from lentils, rinse and drain. Put first 9 ingredients up through tomato paste/ketchup into a kettle and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, 1.5 hours. Season with salt, pepper and vinegar.

Rutabaga-Apple Bake

3 cups plus one handful pared rutabaga slices
2 (3 if small apples) apples, cored and sliced (peeling optional)
1/4 cup brown sugar
2 Tbsp butter or margarine
salt

Bring rutabaga slices to a boil a covered pot of salted water. Turn off the heat, keep covered, and leave for 20 minutes. Drain rutabagas. Then turn on oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Grease 1.5-quart casserole dish. Place half of rutabaga slices in casserole, top with half of apple slices. Sprinkle with salt. Sprinkle with half of brown sugar. Repeat layers. Dot top layer with butter and bake, covered, 30 to 40 minutes.

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